The latest crag for zimmerframe users — One Tree Crag, Sumner Valley, Christchurch

This crag illustrates the dangers of letting two under-employed local near-pensioners loose with a drill. Until this frenzied burst of choss removal and drilling the only noteworthy route on the crag was Ray's "Out with the Missus" although there were rumours of other developments. The archeological diggings did reveal hints of homo climberus activities but no clay tablets designating the routes were unearthed, so until proved otherwise, this will have to stand as the definitive document. All of the climbs are bolt protected and equipped with double bolt anchors. They are designed to be led as approach from the top is not to be recommended. Most of the climbs have had a second ascent to try to confirm the grades. The crag gets early sun and is sheltered from the NW and not too cold in a southerly.

Approach

Drive or bus to Sumner then take the first path to the Capt Thomas Track off Wakefield Ave. Where the track levels one gets a good view of the tree and slab. Cross the first fence at dug steps by a large pine and the next fence where it suits. The climbs are described from right to left starting just left off the fence running up to the crag.

On a black buttress near the fence are

Bandits at 3 O'clock(18) 3 bolts. Surprisingly awkward and a touch technical. Look down if you are tempted not to clip the bolts. Ray Button 09

Rocking Horse(15) 4 bolts. Ray tried to dislodge the hanging flake but still best avoided. Hard to avoid the creaking top flake on the climb but it again resisted Ray's efforts with a crowbar. Ray Button 09

On the central slab

Off with the Mistress(17) 7 bolts. Shares the first bolt with the Missus and the second if you like. Then best to keep them apart. Traverse right from the Missus and climb a shattered patch of rock to gain the arete which is followed to the anchor. John Entwisle 09

Out with the Missus(16) 7 bolts. Originally climbed on gear in Ray's mad youth.  Climbs the left side of the slab avoiding contact with the Mistress. Ray Button 94

Just left of the main slab

Courtesan(17) 5 bolts. Up the rounded arete, across ledge over bulge and onto upper slab. Ray Button 09

Left again on a small buttress.

Falling Rayn(17) 3 bolts. Directly up where the 3 bolts lead. There are holds somewhere in the lichen. John Entwisle 09

Bit on the Side(18) 3 bolts. Either do a long reach from the left or start direct(best to clip the bolt first). Soon eases off. John Entwisle 09

Higher and left

Kiwi Saver(15) 6 bolts. Straight up the slabby pillar. Long walk to anchor. Said to be a better route than either the Missus or the Mistress. We are waiting for Tiger to confirm our opinion! Ray Button. 09

Visions of Grandeur(16) 4 bolts. Up the slab. Clearly the first ascentionist needs glasses. Ray Button 09

Far left near a dark gulley

I like It(17) 4 bolts. Start up veg crack until a hanging ledge can be gained. Stand up on this and make thin move up slab. Finish as for next climb. John Entwisle 09

Whingeing in the Rain(21) 4 bolts. Up steep wall, somehow gain the slab, work left past aging piton and then tend right. John Entwisle 09

Drop the Block(19) 5 bolts. The crux was getting what now is the starting block off the climb without demolishing Sumner. Up bulges to finishing mantle. John Entwisle 09

Bolts for Brits(19) Up gulley and crack until it is possible to step left above a dirty ledge. Pull up the wall and balance on. John Entwisle 09

John Entwisle Dec 09