safety alert at kew
16 October 2009 - 4:33pm
So i just got a heads up that the anchor for "punk rockers" which is shared with "diamonds in the rough" (i think) is UNSAFE. apparently one of the bolts has quite a bit of movment in it. can't confirm this personally as i am currently in joshua tree in south cali (sorry had to skite) but if anyone with a bit of bolting knowhow in the area could check this (travis or tom maybe...) i suspect that it has been pulled at a strange angle and will need to be replaced. prefureably both bolts, and with glue-ins if its going in the roof...
i will be back to check on my fav little crag mid jan. should be strong by then...
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16 October 2009 - 11:19pm
#2
I doubt the Tru Bolt is loose.... probably just the hanger. I'd say anyone up there with a spanner can probably give it a quick tork and it will be sweet. That bolt is rated for a 20kN pull out forse and I doubt it has received that by people abseilling off it! That being said.... I agree that it should be inspected (as with any fixed gear you are about to trust your life to) before clipping in and jumping off the edge!
17 October 2009 - 6:22am
#3
add some loctite toall your nuts as good practice
17 October 2009 - 11:35am
#4
Hey!
I gave the heads up about the anchors for punk rockers... One of the actual bolts has well over a cm movement in it... the other one is sound but yeah i guess going by one solid bolt is not good practice with a bolt on an overhang on limestone? Correct me if I am wrong as i have no bolting experience... I just took the hangers off and left them at the base of the climb with a note for whoever has the knowlege and wants to check it. Loved the climbs so much and got the onsite for both but when seconding my friend up the bolt pulled out like a cm which i was like WOAH that aint meant to happen ;) Thanks team and i look forward to climbing there again soon! So much to do!!!
18 October 2009 - 2:11pm
#5
Cheers Ben! I'll send Tom and Travis a link to this thread. FYI for developers, the blue loctite doesn't seem to work well for TruBolts at Kewa (don't ask me why--it works fine everywhere else I've used it.)
At Kewa, glue in u-/p-bolts seem to work the best of anything I've used so far, when they can be used.
3 January 2010 - 7:02pm
#6
Sorted but the person who bolted the anchor above Punk Rockers was/is a total space cadet. Well maybe not but they sure as hell can’t tell where to place a bolt or not. The anchor was placed in a 45degree soft roof! The two bolts were loose and were already about 1/4 - 1/3 pulled out. When I hit the rock it sounded rotten as well the top skin/flake moving!!! Well dodgy not checking what rock is like before bolting or not knowing what solid rock sounds like!
I used a couple of crag bolts from the store to fix the anchor.
13 January 2010 - 1:07pm
#7
Thanks for that, Ivan! Punk Rockers was the first route bolted at Kewa, and the only route equipped by the developer. I'm amazed you found good rock up there to put an anchor in, actually! :) That whole ledge is crud, eh.
JT won't make you strong for Kewa'
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