Paynes - some climbs to close/be removed

Paynes Ford Conservation
Following some heavy-handed new routing activities in 2008, the Department of Conservation decided to impose a moratorium on new routes at Paynes Ford until a vegetation survey had been conducted and better management practices were established.

In September 2008 Golden Bay Climbers was formed to represent climbers and to liaise with DOC over the management of climbing actions, including new route and rebolting activity in the Paynes Ford Scenic Reserve. Last summer this worked well and combined with the new fund established by Hangdog Campground, there has been a large number of anchors replaced and routes rebolted.

Recently DOC presented the findings and recommendations from the vegetation survey to GBC and Hangdog management. DOC stated that it actively encourages climbing within the reserve and sees it as a legitimate recreational activity. The survey is a means to give some background to climber impacts and act as a starting point for future management.

Based on the survey, all parties have agreed that the traverse track connecting the Stone Symposium area to Tenuite Wall and the track connecting Globe Wall to Little Lost Wall will be closed, and no route development will be allowed in the closed areas. Also, the North End will be closed and the routes on the two outcrops will be removed as this area contains a forest unique within Golden Bay. As well, Gobble Gobble Yum Yum, one of the original routes at Rhinoceros Wall, will be removed to protect the flowstone it climbs in the lower part.

With support from the Hangdog Fund, DOC will be building a new toilet near the gate at the southern end of the crag. As well, with Golden Bay Climbers, the local DoC office has been successful in gaining funding for track upgrades and mitigation work at the base of the cliffs, with implementation starting soon. This will require volunteer labour, so if you are heading to Paynes this summer be prepared to lend a hand!
—report by Brian Alder