'papa vs 'kewa
8 May 2008 - 10:19am
ding ding ding!
round two
gloves up gentlemen.
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8 May 2008 - 4:07pm
#2
kewa - the rock comes off in your hand, into you, onto your belayers head. Bang!
papa - the rock stays on. Thud!
kewa - super dirty...but sometimes you like that...even the girls ;) - Thwack!
papa - just a nice fresh air location. Old school slab action, sure, it can be tedious and bloody hard on your toes! But, the quality of the rock IS immaculate. Biff!
kewa...(reeling)....Dogdy boy racers locals may be an issue later...slap!
papa - Its got TRAD...thats right that OTHER style...its not a "uber super" Crag...but you could hardly ask for more. - KAPOW!
I think both crags have their merits and apart from style differences kewa maybe a little way off to being a great crag. But potential is absolutley awesome at kewa.
I will dig out some photo's of upstream an hr from the crag..."there be boulders in them there hills!" I plan to develop here...its a bit of a walk, but i guarantee some great bouldering will be had! As for the massive overhang...its bloody amazing, and will be quite somethng once routes go up.
11 May 2008 - 9:03am
#3
Though waipapa offers a lot of variety as well as cool scenery.... work was cancelled for me on Friday (due to heavy rain), so I went rock climbing instead. Where.... Kewa of course! Lots of other people who WERE going to head out to papa (or froggart or the bay) showed up on Saturday as well. We all hung out at the Colesseum and Wall of Teeth, dry as, and climbed for the whole day.
Kewa may still be a baby and needs a lot of love before it grows up.... but as a winter crag it already kicks all of the NI crags a$$es, hands down. Give it another year or 2 of new routes and traffic to clean up the "fiddly" bits and it will be a force to be reconned with! That being said, it will never cater to those who prefer trad or delicate, balancy sport lines... unless they prefer real rock over plastic during the rainy season, then I'm sure we'll even see a few of them as well.
11 May 2008 - 3:13pm
#4
Hey Matti,
Seems like you have developers rose tinted glasses on. I wondered where I had lost them.
:lol:
Waipapa would have been gorgeous today. In the Sun, dry and clean even. :D The best time to go there is in the cooler months
Both crags have their merits. At the moment I wonder how many 25-30m classy lines kewa has?
For its type Waipapa has many great routes. Sure, its not overhanging (although I could put you on some fingery, pumpy routes there if you like)but of its style it is very good and compares well with other similar style/angle crags I have climbed on abroad.
Not sure what the gym comment refers to in the last sentence of your post. Kewa seems more of a gym bunnies hangout to me! (Those that like to think of themselves as "cool") :wink:
Suggest that all try and appreciate both crags for their respective styles and learn to master both. If you were consistently good at both crags then you would probably be able to call yourself a reasonably versatile rock climber.
Cheers,
Martyn
13 May 2008 - 7:21am
#5
Cheers foe the input Martyn. You basically ignored what both oto and I have been saying. Kewa is WAY different from Waipapa so compairing them is silly. I'm not sure why the thread started... but from the beginning I've pointed out that it is really difficult to compair them.
Waipapa is HEAPS older than Kewa.... of course it has a lot more hard routes. It would be very selfish on the part of the developers to put up loads of hard lines and hoard the crag to themselves. Kewa is a great, weather proof crag... we (the developers) decided to get as many quality moderate routes up as quick as possible so EVERYONE would be able to enjoy outdoor rock over the rainy winter months.
I DO enjoy Waipapa.... very much so. Why can't I enjoy both crags? Is that really so bad? As for the gym ref.... I wqas simply saying that as that Waipapa is wet in the rain and Kewa isn't... I prefer going OUTdoors than being trapped in some poofy indoor gym. I HATE plastic... end of story. It's not about being "cool," just assessing why I climb.... I love the outdoors and thats where the rock is. I will climb inside to be social.... but any chance to get people on real rock, I'll take!
If you are so concerned with hard lines at Kewa... leave the climate controlled, latte serving comfort of the gym and come put up a few hard lines!!! Sorry for sounding cheeky... but IDO NOT want this to be a pissing match. If you would like to discuss who's penis is bigger... go to the extension of this thread on smack talk. Otherwiswe... go climb where you want to and I'll keep climbing (and developing) where I want to.
13 May 2008 - 8:12am
#6
If you would like to discuss who's penis is bigger... go to the extension of this thread on smack talk.
put down the beer matt and take a look at the top of the page... this thread is in smacktalk.
6 inch..7 inch..8 inch...
13 May 2008 - 8:51am
#7
Calm down Matt, the drugs must be making you overly aggresive or paranoid. Those steroids are dangerous.
This is definitely in smack talk.
I never mentioned harder lines in my post. I always just liked putting up good lines, whether easier or harder. Its just that most of the lines which motivated me at Waipapa were in their 20s. (just like women really! :wink: )
No need to go and hang it in the breeze me thinks. The "cool" comment came from someone in the other thread, can't remember who. If "uncool" means climbing on a variety of crags then I will stick with that.
True, I don't get out much climbing at the moment. Dividing what time I have between MTBing, paddling, a bit of climbing, spending time with my family and doing stuff with my son and daughter, work and coaching commitments, so I apologise for not getting out there and putting up any routes. The young, free and single can do that. At least you all know how to bolt properly now :wink:
13 May 2008 - 11:28am
#8
there must be something in the dust at 'kewa
gets in the lungs goes straight to the brain, has an effect on the visual centres. Must be good stuff getting across the BBB.
13 May 2008 - 4:43pm
#9
Easy choice for me: Waipapa is my favorite, hands-down. The only problem is, I can't ever seem to find anyone else keen to go old-school, frictionless slab-climbing. Nobody seems to be into brainy rather than brawny climbing, and rather than spend my time shunting in gloomy solitude at Lakeside and Millenium, I'd rather wander up to Kewa midweek to find at least four or five other randoms to climb with. :roll:
13 May 2008 - 5:02pm
#10
FROGGATT!!!!
That's where I was on saturday.
Pulling down on the most skin unfriendly pockets of pain imaginable with 6 fingers taped up like a mummy so they would barely bend whilst being savaged by sandflies.
That's real man climbing.
Not this nice so smooth to the touch as a baby's bottom steep juggy limestone they have further south.
13 May 2008 - 6:06pm
#11
Mental note.... don't try to post anything on mojo BEFORE my 1st cup of coffee in the morning. The brain is worse off than usual :wink: :oops:
So Regan, how was the weather out at the frog? I suppose you were trying the new proj out there so it stayed mostly dry?
On that note.... a good wander away from the main topic- What is the appeal in Froggert? I'd (almost) prefer plastic to the repetitious pocket pulling there! I mean, it is cool for a change, now and again.... but the place just lacks asthetics. BOTH Kewa and Waipapa are easily more pleasent to hang out at....AND the rock at both venues is heaps more finger friendly.
14 May 2008 - 10:07am
#12
Perfect conditions at Froggatt saturday. Couldn't have asked for better. 15 degrees, dry and sunny.
14 May 2008 - 12:11pm
#13
There's nothing wrong with Froggat... its a great place to climb.
I'd hardly call it an easy place to climb, most of the hard grades have one or two "pockets of pain" and there's some really outstanding lines down there... Daddy Long Legs, Brontosaus Theroy, Monster P... Most of the lines are solid grades too.
Ton's of climbs across all the grades, easy access, hot shower's and cold beer's at Bryces.
14 May 2008 - 7:18pm
#14
Froggat, smoggatt. it may have a good amount of climbs but they are all the same. one pocket two pocket three pocket four... wiapapa has such a "hidious walk in" and Kewa unfortunatly is going to turn into gym gumby central. there will also be helmet gumbies, french gumbies and of course the all reliable buddy gumby. no mixed gumbies though. (see rock and ice, the health issue for full details), wonder how long it'll bee before someone threads thier grigri backwards. at least at waipapa the only belay you see is a good one plus you can handjam at wiapapa, and you need your feet. think i'd donate mine to science to save weight if i only climbed at kewa.
man that was fun.
14 May 2008 - 8:27pm
#15
And Tom Johns steps into the ring.... dealing out crushing blows to any crag within reach! I feel a bit dazed after just READING that post. I feel sorry for any rock that stumbles across his path tonite!
15 May 2008 - 10:11am
#16
with forarms like tom's, crushing is the only thing he's good at :wink:
15 May 2008 - 12:51pm
#17
What is all this talk about froggatt not being good :evil: ...
kiwi is nice for some gym jug hauling. and papa... well if you like easy slab climbing is ok, (checkmate) :lol: .
But the most concentrated amount of hard climb is at froggatt. If you really want to pull down it is where it is at! with lines like Dr evil, BTL, and going ballistic. Not to mention, in my opinion, one of the hardest projects in NZ ( left of louder)
yeah maybe if you are a bumbly froggatt isnt as good, but if you want to pull down it is where it is at, pound for pound the hardest moves in the WORLD!!!!! no dout.
15 May 2008 - 1:21pm
#18
No doubt if you want to climb hard routes in the North island Froggatt is where you need to be.
Since this is smacktalk...
GRADE 26
Totalling Dad’s Car
Redback
Strife
Direct Action
Vroom Vroom Mentality
Magnagenie
Lanky
Hold On to Your Face
GRADE 27
Automatic Dour
Mini Threat
Supervixen
The Light’s on But Nobody’s Home
GRADE 28
Louder
Dr Evil
Burn
Going Ballistic
Double Leaning Jowler
Double Major Dropout
GRADE 29
Pocket Fish (28?)
Minor Threat
GRADE 30
Built to Last
Maddog Hine
15 May 2008 - 1:39pm
#19
poc fish= 28 never 29
and mini threat is not real! only if you are doing a dirt DDDDD...
and wait wait...
you have forgotten John pellews amazing, mind blowing, first ascent of a boulder probelm, put down as a climb aka pull on start, of 0 to ten in 60.. 26. :o
muppet!
15 May 2008 - 1:49pm
#20
All the hard men from Auckland enjoy the finger pain of Frog while the rest of you softies are happy with your big slopers.. .dont break a nail boys :lol: 8)
15 May 2008 - 4:53pm
#21
Dont forget the concentration of hard climbs a "little" closer to Auckland
THE QUARRY!!
15 May 2008 - 8:24pm
#22
Ok... as that the "smack" is on.... Kewa is a baby crag. It has HUGE potential for all grades, but especially hard routes. Why are there none being put up?
In my opinion it is that many of the "hard" climbers are to afraid of reaping the "Kawakawa Bay Syndrome!" What is KBS you ask.... well, heaps of Mojomoaners have put down fellow climbers for their bolting efforts and to some degree, I think this has actually made developing new lines a bit intimidating for those who are "image" climbers. "I don't want to develop because people might say- The route is over bolted. The route is under bolted. The crag sucks. The bolts aren't what I'd use. The glue isn't the same kind I use. The description is bad. Etc, etc. etc...." SOMETIMES, amidst the banter, there is valid advice.... often times it is just unsubstatiated rubbish. I say as long as you make an educated attempt to bolt responsibly are willing to listen and learn... the people who actually get out there and DO are the real winners.
Oh, sure.... you may be strong and have sent OTHER peoples lines.... but why not get out there and put them up yourself!?! It DOES take a bit of work, but the end result of nailing the 1st ascent of a route which is truely at (or above) your limit is AWESOME. If it makes YOU happy, who cares about what the armchair warriors will say? Or, perhaps the "hardmen" out there are just not in to the style at Kewa? Fine, but don't complain that it lacks the hard lines though.
There ARE some new, HARD lines going up (here, there and everywhere).... but the more the merrier. It seems the window for an NZAC bolt course is gone for this year.... bit there are plenty of people around who have either taken the course previously, had YEARS of experiance doing it or both, who are more that happy to give a bit of instruction for keen individules who are a bit leary of the "how to."
For the record.... this is a blanket rant. This is really pointed at no one in particular. But damm, it was good to have bit of a mental chunda... just to get it all out there!!! Kewa DOES need some hard lines put up. We need some hard climbers who are willing to do that. Come on crew... there's plenty to go around!
16 May 2008 - 12:12am
#23
poc fish= 28 never 29
Send it first before talking crap FM. It maybe 28, but you aint sent yet buddy.
Minithreat is not 27 regan...its still moving off that hideous left poc. Its all a bit bloody contrived, but hey...i already downgraded my ascent ages back. Not afraid to do that ... but maybe when someone repeats BTL or MD, then maybe the big upgrade to 30 (8a+) we would have done years back, is appropiate!!
As for the rest of the comments regarding crags. I have to agree that whilst Frog has a high concentration of "hard" (what ever that means) routes, its not the be all and end all. It just happens to be quite handy to access, quality lines, challenging and quite a nice crag IMHO.
BUT...having seen the amount of effort that developers such as natti, TJ, Dan Head, Ryon VH etc put in...well...if "advanced" climbers want hard climbs anywhere (Not just kewa) - getting up and doing something about it is the way (as nicely pointed out by the natti meister!) No one climbs harder than 27 there (I think?) ...so what did you expect?!! 5 x 29's 2 x 30's in the first week???....at least RVH has the guts to put up a line he finds very hard...an open project...and YES it is hard...prob 29. So I say, stop the damn whinging.
Like many others, I appreciate the lines and effort people made happen, but it just not my bag to put them up. So i really don't have two legs to stand on in terms of baggin a crag (which is why i don't complain too much about it!) - Which is what suprises me about other "Non Developers" - who can spout all day long about all the lines they never put up!!!!
I take my hat off to the Kewa crew...and for that matter all the cragrats! Without them, i'd have never bothered getting into it. I put back by donating to the various bolting funds, give feedback to people about thier routes, try to stay ethical to each area i visit and just be friendly to people.
Not that hard is it?
Game on 8)
16 May 2008 - 7:44am
#24
i love bolting...
i think that all people should love bolting for the following reasons:
you get to do something new, none of this minor threat is this, this is only that and is this hold in crap, you can do what you like.
you climb harder on a FA, well i do.
you can add to the climbng in the north island, nothing gives selfless people more pleasure than having someone say that they liked your climb.
you can sandbag
you get to play with power tools and scare yourself shitless once in a while.
if your selfish then you can bolt death routes and screw what everyone else says. if they're not hard enough to climb it then thats not your problem.
it's fun, in a really peverse sick way.
people look up to you, even if they bag the crap out of you at the end of the day respect ussually goes to developers.
thats all i can think of for now, so all you peoples out there who want something hard go find it, if you turn up at Kewa with enthusiasm then im sure that you'll find hardwear, tools and someone wiling to teach you all the required tricks.
get out there
16 May 2008 - 10:50am
#25
Samoa samoa samoa samoa samoa samoa... did i touch a nerve bitchard :D
you are right bitchard i didnt send it on my first try, but i did almost flash it. truely i would love to be able to almost flash 29... but it is just not the case. plus holgar graded it 28, not 29... i think you were doing a dirty dddddd on that one :D i.e. you had a dirty dddd when you first worked it!!!! haha
Matt. you are right, kiwa has possible hard lines, but none, in the main area, that are as good as any at other areas; just my opinion; but the easier ones i did were fun. I would rather send the hard lines i have not sent yet at other areas. However i do think the big wall 40min away from the main area is one of the coolest things i have seen in a long time. sadly i have not the time, or skill to bolt something that large...i really wish i did. maybe in 3 months when i am not so busy i will come down and do it, if you are still there and will to help me with the madddd skills you have at bolting.
16 May 2008 - 11:49am
#26
Went to Kewa yesterday and climbed Chimera. Better than any line at froggett easy or hard....
I can not beleive that you are still climbing at Froggett? Can you explain to me why you keep going back to Froggett? why not stay at home stand in cow shit and rub you fingers with sand paper it will give you the same sensation with out having to deal with traffic.
Thanks to all the guys putting in the hard yards at Kewa.
16 May 2008 - 12:03pm
#27
That's going a bit overboard Kerry! :shock: :wink:
Chimera is a cool route but a total chosspile for the last 2 bolts.
I thought it would be solid 2 star if the rock was quality all the way. Loses one for the top section.
It's good but wouldn't be in anyones list of best routes in the country for the grade. "Hold on to Your face" at Froggatt certainly is.
I remember after Olivier Favresse onsighted it, he said it was one of the best routes at any grade he had climbed in New Zealand.
And at the easy level "Terror Incognita" would sit happily in a list of great routes worldwide for 18. Chimera doesn't come close to being worthy on an international scale.
No offense Ryan, you know I loved it. Got to keep things in perspective though.
16 May 2008 - 1:29pm
#28
Are you on Drugs? World wide??? It is a nice route but now I think you are stretching things a wee bit.
Hold on to your face is nice but I prefer the gymnastic style of chimera, but that is me and I have been wrong before. (I even admitted liking Smiths' once :oops: )
I guess I do not want people to be put off trying Kewa as I think it would be a shame if it does not get traffic because people are selling it short. A bunch of Kewa virgins were really suprised yesterday how good it was, they were not covered in dust and showered in falling rocks after a great days climbing.
16 May 2008 - 1:58pm
#29
Are you on Drugs? World wide??? It is a nice route but now I think you are stretching things a wee bit.
Hold on to your face is nice but I prefer the gymnastic style of chimera, but that is me and I have been wrong before. (I even admitted liking Smiths' once :oops: )
I guess I do not want people to be put off trying Kewa as I think it would be a shame if it does not get traffic because people are selling it short. A bunch of Kewa virgins were really suprised yesterday how good it was, they were not covered in dust and showered in falling rocks after a great days climbing.
Hold on to your face is nice but I prefer the gymnastic style of chimera, but that is me and I have been wrong before. (I even admitted liking Smiths' once :oops: )
I guess I do not want people to be put off trying Kewa as I think it would be a shame if it does not get traffic because people are selling it short. A bunch of Kewa virgins were really suprised yesterday how good it was, they were not covered in dust and showered in falling rocks after a great days climbing.
Come on mate... we in the "Smack" talk... I think we are all just having a giggle at each other :)
Personally.. I dont think there is enough crags around to really spend all your time at one place :lol: so no favouritism here :)
16 May 2008 - 2:11pm
#30
Gosh and golly.. what a stirrrr...
when will people pull the g strings out of there cracks and remember this is all "TALKING SHIT" honestly stop crying about what people say on this forum... kiwa is ok, froggatt is ok, papa is ok, paynes is ok, they are all bloody ok.. but what fun would it be if we all start stroking each other nicly, or if you are rich stroking dave p's penis, saying how great everything is in smak talk. it is more fun making up bullshit and having a laugh about it.
PS. to matt, we have meet, i like the crag i told you that in person...
and kerry come on... just cos it takes you 1000 goes to send hold on to your face doesnt mean it isnt world class.. cos it is :D
16 May 2008 - 2:20pm
#31
Only 100 goes for H.O.T.Y.F... It only felt like 1000! :wink:
And yes I did enjoy it.
16 May 2008 - 2:32pm
#32
haha.. nice! will i be graced with your powerfull climbing at the mt comp next week kerry? i am forerunning again... the dog i am!!
16 May 2008 - 2:39pm
#33
Yes, I am carbo loading for it as we speak. You will be suprised how "carbo a plenty" the Steak and Cheese pie can be.
16 May 2008 - 3:42pm
#34
In my opinion it is that many of the "hard" climbers are to afraid of reaping the "Kawakawa Bay Syndrome!" What is KBS you ask.... well, heaps of Mojomoaners have put down fellow climbers for their bolting efforts and to some degree, I think this has actually made developing new lines a bit intimidating for those who are "image" climbers. "I don't want to develop because people might say- The route is over bolted. The route is under bolted. The crag sucks. The bolts aren't what I'd use. The glue isn't the same kind I use. The description is bad. Etc, etc. etc...."
hey matt do you think you will ever get over the kawakawa bay bolting debate? i know that you took up arms in defence of your mates hard work pioneering etc. and good onya, but its over... move on.. seems like you can get it out of your system and has become a recurring thread in your writing, your doing good things up there so why not drop the persecution bit?
note how every one is applauding the kewa development, cause its new, exciting, has potential and its being done right with good gear.. yipee everyones a winner
16 May 2008 - 6:08pm
#35
You guys are all funny :wink: , I have gotten a good chuckle out of this thread so far! :lol:
As for your opinion "en," no... I will never forget the K'bay episode. I hope we ALL learned from it and I hope to keep the lessons gained from it alive and well. I support (and pass on, as much as possible) good bolting technique because of K'bay. I also try to make a point of seeing both sides of a coin before I try to destroy one man's hard work. Don't get me wrong... I am STOKED with the feedback Kewa has gotten so far, especially considering that even the few negative bits have been put out there in a constructive manner.
I am sorry if I "won't let it go," but it had a fairly significant impact on a lot of my friends. It may just be a part of NI climbing history to you, but it meant a lot to me. I do not bring it up everyday.... just now and again, as a reminder of how a thread CAN go bad!
16 May 2008 - 9:11pm
#36
o dear :shock:
17 May 2008 - 3:19am
#37
you are right bitchard i didnt send it on my first try, but i did almost flash it. truely i would love to be able to almost flash 29... but it is just not the case. plus holgar graded it 28, not 29... i think you were doing a dirty dddddd on that one Very Happy i.e. you had a dirty dddd when you first worked it!!!! haha
OK Mr JFM ...
a) Since the start is the same as Strife...and you HAVE done strife...its not a flash is it mate...
b) The bolt put in by Zane has made it a hell of a lot easier to clip than the hideous full strecth way Holger and I had to do it.
c) Its 14 moves (for me) - so give or take a few moves...hell its a freaking boulder problem! (If it was on the ground we'd all boulder it with pads)
Dont you be a Dirty D Sunny jim...
Hey Keezer, good to hear from you! :P
You wonder why still froggatt?? It has some pretty hard fingery routes....I (we) like the style...i guess...it forces you to be pretty strong in the finger dept. The draw card for papa is the technical styles needed and the great location...i think i just like that forest and lake area. Kewa at the main crag area is a little bit dark for my liking...however...up stream there is some great boulder potential...and, now obviously, the mega line(s).
Chimera...buddy...my onsight was ruined by dirt!!!! even then..I think it would have been a tall order to pull of the wet stal at the top. So compared to hold on to your face....a quality two six....well. I think the later is definetly more challenging.
Did you try the two 24's to the right? They are both great! - I think Power of the pink is a great line with an excellent crux...Space cowboy is a bit harder to read. Up on the second tier to the left, theres a stiff 21/22 as well....just RAD little lines. Can't say i'm dissapointed with the crag really...just look forward to next summer, when a load of traffic has gone through the place.
17 May 2008 - 5:14pm
#38
:D you got me there rich...
YOu are correct. I am just fucking with you anyways!!!! :wink:
the new bolt does make it easier to work than before that is for sure. All my bullshit smack talk will have to be proven tomorrow when i go to send it...!!! if i dont then i happyly invite you to mock the shit out of me haha..
The real truth is tho; if scott was here poc fish would be 26 strife would be 23 and dr evil would be 24 :) haha.. ant that the truth!!!
and by the way, you could never be as bad as a dirty d!!!! hahaha.
shalom shalom brother, you are the beast samoan rock crusher!!
JFM
17 May 2008 - 8:33pm
#39
Bad mouthing froggat upsets me in some ways. Hold on to your face = very good climb
Automatic Dour = freaking rad. Why dont people rate it higher?
One of my favorite climbs ever
17 May 2008 - 9:17pm
#40
1080 - Its because its HARD to climb at Frog. IF you can persevere and ignore the pain, to the spoils go the victor.
It may be that there are easier places to climb in the NI. But, please, I agree, when people bag it...its cos they are probably soft. Just like the Quarry in AK...why is it, that because its generally hard (taking a good few years to really appreciate it) - that people bag it?
Again, today, a wonderful afternoon cranking it out at the Quarry...what more could you ask for in AK? Make the most of what you have...some climbers are fickle and can never be pleased...well F#$k em...if you don't like it piss off then. Find a slab or jug haul...its just plain annoying.
Stop bagging places you are too inept to scale; too weak to put the time, effort and will into. Hell ... just give up when the going gets tough. Like climbing was always supposed to be easy, accommodating, mediocre. It is not...in reality, it is you who are not up to it.
17 May 2008 - 10:10pm
#41
In other news, there will be a new, hard-ish, fingery route between Power of the Pink and Space Cowboys in the near future. The abandoned project that Tom and John P. kindly did all the cleaning on should go if I ever get a day off work at the same time as a belayer. Not an instant classic, but clean, beautiful rock nonetheless.
Guess I should get on HotYF--never was inspired. Auto-Dour, however, is a beauty. Reminds me of Smith Rock, Oregon--only shorter. :) As for Froggatt in general, I've thoroughly enjoyed my trips there every couple of years. I mean, it is forty-five minutes from my house, but seriously, why would I when I could climb at Whanganui, Waipapa, Kawakawa, Blowhard, Mangaotaki, Whakapapa, Taranaki, Mangatapopo, Reporoa, Te Ananui...it's just not all that high up the list, frankly. 8) I prefer areas with variety of movement and holds, ones with intellectually compelling routes. Frog's a playground, nothing more.
17 May 2008 - 10:12pm
#42
[I was originally petrified that 'Kewa would be the same, and was pushing development primarily as a dry, winter crag and have been pleasantly surprised at how engaging and cryptic the routes have been.]
Still, I marvel that people can continue to be enthusiastic about the same ignimbrite pocks, day in, day out. Honestly, I reckon it's just an outgrouth of people too lazy to go to the Bay and too craven to climb trad. As for those of you who think Froggatt's polished pocks are too sharp, man up and boulder some granite.
18 May 2008 - 2:06am
#43
also upsets me a little when people say froggat is 'same old' pockets 'all the same'.
Why say slab climbing requires extra thinking....? it doesnt.
I prefer areas with variety of movement and holds
clearly every pocket is different, all pockets are up a wall in a different sequence. i refuse to accept this as critisism worth listening to, to enjoy froggatt, man up, climb something hard.. and you will enjoy it. i feel people who bag froggat generally are too lazy to stick to a project.
learn.
18 May 2008 - 3:06pm
#44
Your DAMN RIGHT they are different 1080 :D
Hmmm...I think hold on to your face has every move in the book! Slab, Crack, Pocks of all shapes/sizes, traversing, jugs, vert, overhung, a rose move!! for crying out loud...and its long enough to make sure you have put in the yards to get it.
Its a classic that never seems to get its due. As good as any I reckon.
Irony is...the route joins a few other routes (as the start is the same for all of them) One is a 20, a couple of others are 28...so its not like there's an issue of "too hard or easy for the masses"
The Climb LAD on a boulder half way to the carpark...has long moves on crimps and only...at the end is there a juggy pocket.
Mr Daddy long legs is a layback from nam....how unique is that climb at froggatt.
White Xmas...is such a rad 16...I climb high 20's and still find that climb so unique and cool.
Saftey Buffalo is a 3 * Overhanging jug haul (OK some small pocks here and there ;) ) - but find me a more asthetic line?
I know that because I have climbed nearly everything at Froggatt and i look elsewhere for the challenge, to bag a place with that amount of concentrated cool lines...well...
18 May 2008 - 5:43pm
#45
Ok Richard. if your looking for something new to play on then as i will be soon departed of this country i have for you a parting gift.
as you walk up the end of the track towards Kewa and you first see the overhanging bulge of stone. the left most three bolt line is yours.
not the biggest proudest line, but one with a lot of shitty holds far enough apart to be potentially quite hard. also it will be the first line that people see as they get to the cliff.
the only catch is that you have to put the anchors in at the top of the clean rock. happy climbing
this thing is marked as the two bolt project in the collesium section of the guide.
and now no one can say i havent given back to climbing :)
18 May 2008 - 9:51pm
#46
Rich... as for Tom's proj- I'd say go with his first idea.... make it a bit more interesting. Sure, go send it.... but don't bother with anchores. His 1st plan was to just climb as high as you can (or are willing) and jump into the tree behind you!
As for the minor hornets nest I stirted up about froggart.... I DO like the climbs there, it is the surroundings that I find a bit unappealing. I have always prefered bush to pasture. Though it is definitely not my favorite destination, the rock certainly has it's merits and is a cool medium to play on. I don't fancy myself to be a very strong climber either, so I haven't really bothered with many of the hard lines there... but that being said, most of the routes I have done I have enjoyed greatly. Climbs like TI, MPT and White X-mas really are stunning routes. I even gave that horrible, overhanging corner crack (20?) by HotYF wall a go the last time I was up.... it was miserable, but fun in a really painful sort of way!
19 May 2008 - 8:38am
#47
i agree with Matts coment on my first idea. i even have a small piece of chain that you can sling around a branch so that once you have stuck the tree you can clip and lower off. i would recomend fixed draws though.
Froggatt RULES
19 May 2008 - 11:50am
#48
maybe this thread should be renamed 'kewa v frog'....
i certainly enjoy frogget, but in a typical, wet waikato winter i would have to say that kewa is FAR better... you need fairly perfect conditions to have an enjoyable day at the frog (not to hot, not to cold, not wet, not too much cow shit) but kewa is a truely ALL weather crag!
just my 2c
pow!
21 May 2008 - 10:33pm
#49
High concentration of hard, complex, interesting lines? Let me think. Babylon? The Chasm? Globe Wall? (dare I say it) The Cave? Or, if we are to compare NZ climbing (including Frog) to the world standard, then practically anywhere blows it out of the water. I mean, just look across the ditch to Tapian Wall. :roll:
There is a difference between gym bunny pock-pulling and cryptic Rifle-style redpointing. And to 1080, a hold is not a hold. Climb just once on 'Kewa's second tier, and you'll know forever what I mean. :D
22 May 2008 - 12:10pm
#50
just because there are better places in the world, doesnt make it shit
Well the side pulling slabs at Waipapa were some of the most un-nerving climbing I've ever done :lol: but then again.... you don't need a Sherman tank to belay from at Waipapa :lol: :lol:
Eats ignimbrite for breakfast