Offset superior to regular wires
17 May 2009 - 12:35am
Your mum said it was "hip to be a square" but it was not true. In fact being offset is much, much "hip"[per].
Offset wires have been proven to be more effective for traditional climbing than equivalently sized regular wired nuts. It was proven by me when I stopped climbing with my WC Rocks and swapped for a set of WC superlight rocks (the little single wire ones) and some of the new DMM Alloy Offsets. The proof is that I can place in all the spots I used to and a lot of the placements are better than with "regular" nuts.
Ballnutz also deserve a mention.
- Login or register to post comments
Printer-friendly version
17 May 2009 - 11:26pm
#2
ewwwww...on both counts
what are nuts anyway???
I'm sure i posted this in smaktorq
Um... nuts are those things you used to use for climbing before you got that damn bolt gun and fired up a grid.
18 May 2009 - 12:48am
#3
yeah i know, those things that go on the end of a bolt when your tightening it up eh
18 May 2009 - 1:59pm
#4
so these are some kind of even newer school thing that keeps the hanger in place???
say if you had a hand crack, would the offsetness allow for the bolt to placed on ripples and constrictions and whatnot?
but seriously, im pretty game to try out some of those offsets, might flex the gear nerd side of the brain and get some of those o so light wc sl rocks
5 November 2009 - 10:18pm
#5
Hey Blair J, I use both.. own regular wall-nuts/rocks, also own alloy offsets and new(from old) brass offsets. I have found that where I can't find a sound seating for a conventional nut, more often than not, an offset will lock in nicely! If I had to choose one over the other then I would go the standard wall-nuts, but if I had the choice(which I do!) I would carry both. Have been climbing at Arapiles as of late and would probably place 5 or 6 regular nuts for every offset I place.
Ballnuts have their place as a specialised piece of gear, but they can be fiddly to place properly and the units themselves don't seem that hard wearing in my honest opinion.
6 November 2009 - 6:36am
#6
Usually I find having a mix of brands and models eg DMM Wallnuts and WC Rocks some RP's and some offsets helps cover most eventualities.
If you are somwhere with full pitches you will need more than one set anyway. When we were climbing lots at Araps for example we used to take triples up to about WC 5, Some will work better in different rock than others.
ewwwww...on both counts
what are nuts anyway???