Jardines
Hi
Probably going over to Wanaka and wondering if anyone knows where or how I can find any info about bouldering at the Jardines.
Thanks Dave
Jardines is Queenstown anyway. Must be some sort of guide from boulder comps etc?
yes but not for distribution..due to landowners request.
if you give me a grade idea I'll tell you a few classics
Otherwise just ask a local out there, we are usually around in the evenings.
Hi Sally
Probably need more help than just grades. How do you get there etc... and do I need to phone anyone?
Was going to try and go on Friday or Saturday evening
Dave
probably too late for you now but you head towards kingston from Qtown It is off the main road. Past remarks ski field about 7? k If you pass lakeside estates on the right you have just gone too far it is the gate on the other side of the road.
Just lock it behind you drive on up to the boulders
No camping, No drinking alcohol, no dogs, No being there after dark.
Otherwise have FUN
Cheers for the info anyway. Will come in handy no doubt.
Ended up doing routes at Riverside which was great. Lollapallooza was awesome. Then had a go at Taniwha on Monday. Amazing position and incredible amount of effort from the guys that developed it! Also went to Al Cap which was pretty impressive.
Thanks Dave
Wheres Al Cap?
its gooooooooood! a few of us rapped down it years ago and were well impressed by the 30-40m gentle overhanging wall of perfect schist.. trouble was we couldnt find any holds.. thankfully the resident uber-strong gents have got busy (Jon, Bruce, Al) true l of matukituki upstream of the bridge and up the hill 100m
hey dave how far did you get on taniwha?
Got to top of pitch 5. Just ran out of time as we were a group of three. Onsighted all up to there which was good.
Amazing position and very impressive crag. Just blown away by the amount of effort and dedication it would have taken to set that route up. Even the approach up to it would have required a huge amount of bush bashing and clearing!
Route just needs a bit more traffic to clean it up and get rid of any loose stuff. Very well bolted and completely safe all the way. Abseil stations all excellent and very easy to get off. Very possible to do it all with an odd point of aid at about 22/3.
wicked effort... hope you get back there as the 6, 8, 9 pitches are the best.. it was a labour of love for a long long time and as you mention it needs traffic to keep it clean so hope a few more get fired up to get on it
pics?
Al Cap is all the rage with the local strong men, to hard for me though.
Apparently it is one of the best peices of steep rock in Wanaka. I havent seen any photos or topos yet so it is still in the secret crag phase (apparently). Maybe in the next climber issue.
I think there will be news in the next Climber about Al Cap, incl pics. Currently there are 5 routes from 23-28, with 1/2 doz more projects 27-30 close (?) to completion.
Tho' is hardly steep - just over vert with lots of varied crimps and long - mostly 20-30m of continuous effort from moment you step off the ground.....
It's a summer crag, so action will close down soon once the frosts start. Will be all go for next summer tho'
anything that isnt a slab is steep to me.
There's a wee mention in mag, but no pics - hopefully next issue.
The locals training boulder called Dragon Head ( discovered by Millz ) on the road to Kelvin Heights is seeing lots of attention lately. However i though it was worth noting that Sam sent the crazy project that has often been looked at as the project for the next generation, many hard climbers have tried this with little sucess. I hate to speculate about the grade however watching sam cruz on V8's and previous climbers thinking it was in the V10 range, all i can say, it's fiking hard!!!
At Jardines a new problem worth a mention is " faded 510 t-shirt" sit start on nw arete ( stand start V5) on the 9th boulder, packs a little punch, grade about V7 needs a second accent.
Dog.
Hey Team
Just to remind people Jardines is closed for lambing from 1st Sept to 20th of Oct. Please respect this.
Also There is NO camping, No dogs (except the dogman), and you must go before you go as there are no toilet facilities and it is not OK to leave Waste lying around on someone's land.
Closure of Jardines
Due to high fire risk around the Wakatipu Jardines is closed until further notice. The landowner would like climbers to respect this until further notice. It may closed for a week or two. See ya.
Jardines reopened end of Feb. On the 6th of March we had an qwesome NBS comp with lots of keen climbers.
Please when you enter Jardines read the sign at the gate and do drive in dirt tracks and not on grass (damaging pasture) and park in between poles left of boulers. The owners have been kind with us as long as we respect their land.
Cheers






There is no published guide - landowners access requirement.