Finger boards
24 April 2010 - 12:07pm
Got the simulator board from Metolius. Mounted it (Which proved a workout in it's self apparently, I have sore shoulders this morning hehe).
Any advice or training tips for using it? Anyone wanna share there work out? Go on... 
Found this random link searching youtube for finger boards... unrelated, but amazing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78MlribAX3Y&NR=1
Hope I can hold slopers like that one day.
25 April 2010 - 6:51pm
#2
Hey, that's a good bunch of programs! Thanks for that!
I tried doing the one that came with the hangboard. I did the first exercise minute routine easy, and I thought I was awesome... then I did the second minute, expelled all my energy in a 15sec dead hang and had to quit for the night. Deflated! Lots of work ahead of me.

http://www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx?ArticleId=4004
This program really worked for me, it is well laid out and really effective, even though i have been climbing for years, i still started at the beginner level of the program, working my way up to the top, making sure all muscle groups and tendons get strong gradually. It is easy starting off on the advanced level training but injury can so quickly creep up as tendons are not prepared for the level of strain. (well that is just my theory)
Have fun and let us know how it goes.
Quentin