Climbing in Wales
14 May 2010 - 8:59pm
Hi i'm heading over to wales in august, unfortunatly i can only climb for a short period, bout 7 days. Any help with suggestions of must climb crags will be appreciated as with my short time I don't want to be wasting time of rubbish rock
cheers
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16 May 2010 - 7:24pm
#2
As there is more climbing of a much greater variety in Wales than the whole of NZ you need to supply more info. Do you climb trad? What NZ grade do you climb? Do you like getting scared?! Are you going solo or with a mate, taking gear or not?
Cheers, Martyn
25 May 2010 - 10:47pm
#3
I have travelled to Wales several times over the past few years and have spent many amazing days out cragging and bouldering in Nth Wales. Snowdonia National Park has a life time of classic 3 star lines and when you've done all them move on to the 2 star routes.
I would recommend spending as much time as possible in the Llanberis Pass region for multi or single pitch trad or sport routes, amazing slate or sandstone. Lots of great bouldering in the valley to, most people boulder close to the road but the real quality is up high in grassy little cwms.
A short drive (30miles) will get you to Tremadog. Stunning lines, bomber gear. Or 20miles out to Holyhead to get on some exposed sea cliffs.
It's not just the quantity of climbing but the amazing quality that sets Nth Wales apart. Heaps of camping in the area, easily accessible and just some of the best climbing available.
If you're looking for sport routes, you'll be climbing on slate most of the time and you'll need 60mtr rope and 12 draws. Standard trad rack will open up many more crags and twice as many slate routes.
Hope that helps. Happy to answer any other questions.
26 May 2010 - 4:19pm
#4
The rock climbing both Trad and Sport in Wales is loads better than that in NZ so don't pass it up.
Dream of White Horses at Golgath a must do.
Yes Llanberis pass and basically anywhere in Snowdonia.
Limestone sport with some of Ben & Jerrys best on the coast near Conway.
One place I really enjoyed on the border of Wales and England the crags round the River Wye Glochestershire.
Get out there there's so much and it's so accessible.
27 May 2010 - 8:23am
#5
Pembroke - AWESOME
27 May 2010 - 9:52pm
#6
sweet cheers guys, i'm not sure if i'll take a rack or not, Its a whole lot easier just to take a set of draws so i'll prob just stick to sport this time round
28 May 2010 - 10:51am
#7
You will be missing the best of Wales without a rack. If you are just sport climbing head to Pen Trwyn and the Ormes as well as the Slate. You could do the mega classics such as Left and Right wall (E2/3 and E5) with just a double set of wires and friends to 2.5. Right Wall doesn't have too much gear in it anyway! There is also some great bouldering all over Llanberis area.
28 May 2010 - 11:48am
#8
I second that MJO infact I would go so far as to say Jaymz why the hell are you even contemplating going to the UK without a trad rack :P
Never got to Pembroke :-(
8 June 2010 - 5:59pm
#9
Pembroke rates... 
28 May 2010 - 5:50pm
#10
I thought that would be the case, the missus doesn't want me to take all my gear, i guess i'll just have to keep working on it. Bag allowance is only 20kg tho so it does pose a problem
28 May 2010 - 8:08pm
#11
Bag allowance is only 20kg tho so it does pose a problem
Tricams are your friends 
I took a "full" (compared to what a gritstone climber would carry) trad-rack to Mallorca last year, plus the rest of my kit (rope, shoes, helmet, harnes, draws, etc) and managed to keep the weight at around 12-13kg.
28 May 2010 - 5:59pm
#12
Rule one - fly via the US and enjoy a larger baggage allowance plus consider Air NZ Sporting goods allowance (10 kg)
7 June 2010 - 9:04pm
#13
Rule one - fly via the US and enjoy a larger baggage allowance plus consider Air NZ Sporting goods allowance (10 kg)
air nz has stopped the extra 10kg sporting goods allowance for international travel via north America. They now have two options, $70 gets you 2 bags up to 32kgs each = 64kgs total or 100$ gets you 3 bags at 23kgs each = 69kgs total. But remember, how many times has your hand luggage ever been weighed? Last time I flew international my hand luggage weighed 15kgs! As long as it fits overhead, airlines don't really care.
29 May 2010 - 8:29am
#14
plus the Brits climb on double ropes so you will be taking a 50-60m 8.5 or 9.1mm single most likely for trad
5 June 2010 - 4:27pm
#15
http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/wiki
a North Wales climbing wiki
10 June 2010 - 9:46pm
#16
Last time I flew to the UK my carry on was weighed and had to transfer into checked luggage. Over the last 4yrs I've noticed airlines getting more and more strict on carry on luggage and custom officials getting staunch on what we carry through immigration. If it looks "heavy" they will weigh it. I had to pay extra going over and had to check my entire carry on after climbing in France. The French Customs are particularly heavy on climbing gear. They won't let anything onto the plane that looks like it could be used to restrain someone...... paranoia!
10 June 2010 - 10:17pm
#17
yea i've heard of people not allowed to take biners on in carry on but rope ok and I've also heard the other way around so i'm real confused with what to pack where. I guess i can always pack climbing gear into check in and all clothes etc can go in carry on
10 June 2010 - 10:27pm
#18
Yep, that's what I reverted to. It's all good as long as you don't mind immigration checking out your budgy smugglers via xray.
When I tried to get my rope through on carry on I was told by a french customs official "you could tie up ze 'ole plane wiz zis rop" (say it in a french accent for full effect)... It's just not worth it these days I reckon. Go with clothes in carry on to be safe.
5 July 2010 - 1:00am
#19
I just got back from Wales the other week, went to Parisella's Cave on the Great Orme, near LLandudno, I had a look down on LPT and the sport climbing looked pretty sick, but if you do want abit of sneaky bouldering 'the cave' is pretty decent. Also the LLanberis Pass is pretty good for both also as well I guess, the Cromlech Boulders are pretty good.
Wales - Rubbish rock - doubt you will find any !!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/Wales/
UKC might help you
and have a look here -
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/#main
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