Bouldering around motueka and takaka hill
14 October 2009 - 9:32am
bouldering up brooklyn valley rd 60 probs up to v6 ,heaps of projects ring ron post 03 5268234.ganite
bouldering up canaan rd takak hill old gathering site 20 probs on marble/limestone heaps to come here cleaning up the old jenkins crag for bouldering as well on doc land.
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16 October 2009 - 1:21pm
#2
So the secret's officially out, then? ;-)
17 October 2009 - 7:13am
#3
well i tryd to get those golden bay guys over but we all know what they are like i spose its hard to leave paynes and go bouldering if any one wants to check it out come down or up and i will be more than happy to show them around sat are the best for me.i will try and get some photos as well there are a few 3 star problems up there for sure RASP v6 *** mantle ,Brooklyn mono rail v6**?Outa africa 3 star v5***,No sleep till brooklyn v5**,Double arete v4*** .there are some realy hard looking problems like a slinter crack into hell slopers and plenty more and these a gd 40 min walk to keep the eggs out haha,craig
17 October 2009 - 7:11pm
#4
you can check out photos on http://www.flickr.com/photos/brooklyn_boulders/ i will try get a guide of some kind and a map and some more photos all photos are of brooklyn i will put some canaan photos on soon am on dail up so things take blimin ages choice hope you enjoy....
18 October 2009 - 9:41am
#5
just to say there are photos of canaan on above http now
23 October 2009 - 1:53pm
#6
cheers craig. keen to see a few more pics of brooklyn. will be around that way post-xmas and will try and pop out for a squiz
23 October 2009 - 6:04pm
#7
ok bud let us know closer to xmas would love to show you around its no castle hill but i think its a pretty unique place and i will put some more photos/map on flickr, starting to head up there a bit more these days so there will be more problems to try.=]
9 November 2009 - 5:34pm
#8
any chance of posting a map/ directions?
10 November 2009 - 9:58pm
#9
Hey, Just finshing off school and am super keen to get into some bouldering! Met a couple guys over at paynes who told us about Brooklyn. Any more info on the access?
13 November 2009 - 1:54pm
#10
ok here are some directions from motueka, head from mot to golden bay but after bridge going over motueka river look out for a road called umukuri rd approx 1km from bridge before rewaka, follow this past brooklyn school go round corner stay on this dont turn off this is brooklyn valley rd follow this untill at carpark/gate approx 10/15 mins from school.leave car and walk for 40mins up farm rd head nrth towards boulders once on top of hill.
otherwise im heading up next sat not tomorrow but next u are more than wellcome to join me.there is a ruff map on above flickr site i will try sort out something better.
13 November 2009 - 1:56pm
#11
oh ps if u do go make sure you ring the landowner before you go choice have fun. ron post 03 5268234.
27 December 2009 - 8:23am
#12
there are a couple of new v7s up there now the arete that is on flickr is been done at v7 and another climb nrth west of rasp plus heaps more easier problems still heaps to go whn are we gona see these hard core bugers from chch eh you guy going soft .well i surpose having the best bouldering in the world just up the rd is prob the reason why eh..
10 January 2010 - 8:27pm
#13
I tried to go to the Brooklyn boulders on the weekend, but couldn't get hold of the landowner. I drove up the road anyway, looks like a nice spot. Found a few puking hippies too!
11 January 2010 - 7:58pm
#14
should have given us a bell bud.maybe next time you at paynes talk to tory he has been going up alot lately. yeah gota watch out for those hippys.
19 April 2010 - 4:46pm
#15
Hey, Brooklyn boulders landowner here. Recently we were moving stock, coming across some boulderers who were in the wrong place at the wrong time, coz they hadn't checked if access ok. Ring or txt (03 5268234 or 021 2548024 or 021 1368993) and please wait for affirmative before going up. Be a shame if we'd have to close it up. Otherwise enjoy!
19 April 2010 - 8:54pm
#16
This is the Motherlode boulder - pretty much the focal point of the area.
26 April 2010 - 7:11pm
#17
Here is a little report I made for the Nelson Climbing Club Newsletter last month:
I have just returned from an exploratory look at the Brooklyn Boulders near Motueka.
Here are the facts:
(the guys from Mot and Golden Bay have been climbing here for a year or so and have told us to get out there and check them out)
Access:
I rang the owner, they are very happy about people entering their property to climb as long as you let them know and don't take dogs. I imagine it would be closed during lambing season. There is a variety of animals lurking in the fields including swarms of bees.
The gate is about 10km from Motueka and 60km from Nelson. The last 5km of road is unsealed. It takes an hour to get to the gate from Nelson. Not sure where the owners house is! There is space for parking on the left just opposite the gate (see the first photo)
It takes another 40min to get to the first climbable boulder. It is up the grassy hill. There is a track but it is pretty steep.The track rises 350m! It would take less fit people a lot longer to get there. (see the second photo)
The Boulder Field
It is about 650m above sea level on a sort of plateau and very exposed. An amazing back drop of the Kahurangi National Park on one side and Tasman Bay on the other. It reminded me of Elephant Rocks in Otago but not as big. The rock has very good friction, not sure what it is (some sort of sedimentary rock with big grains and quartz-like flecks in it). Quite a lot of lichen on south facing boulders. Parts are a bit flaky and easily broken but there are plenty of solid high boulders. The rock is more coarse than Castle Hill but equally unfeatured. Some good slopers and the odd (1) parallel fist-sized crack so rare in NZ! There would be plenty of bouldering routes within 2 hectares all on grass and shared with sheep, goats, and a few cow-like animals. Actually it would be a good landing spot for aliens, so I wouldn't go there alone at night.
The last photo shows the view of the boulder field from just outside Motueka looking through freshly harvested hops. You can see how big the climb is!
Summary
Positives
Fun bouldering, amazing setting, happy land owners, any medical emergency would result in a free ride in a helicopter
No cicadas!
The zig zag track up the hill ensures an even tan on all exposed parts
A great day adventure for climbing club members
Negatives
Takes longer to get there from Nelson than Paynes Ford! (approx. 14m 36s longer)
Will be hard work hauling boulder mats up to the field (not to mention thermos flasks)
The dusty road made my beautiful Subaru very dirty.
Nearest cafe is 12.5km away
The altitude could cause very quick weather changes
Questions
I wonder if the owners would allow camping? Would be exciting to camp up there with some funny people.
Andrew, reporting for the Nelson Climbing Club
26 April 2010 - 8:36pm
#18
and the photos...
27 April 2010 - 5:59pm
#19
Any idea of the rock type? Maps seem to indicate some sort of igneous rock, granite- gabbro ish around there, but AJ thinks sedimentary? Photos look like a basalt or granite to me. Could anyone describe the grains?
11 May 2010 - 10:36am
#20
Rock type is granite. seems to be the same as abel tasman. its very, very abrasive. great friction.
heading up there today will take some more photos.
25 May 2010 - 11:46am
#21
some pics up from brooklyn last week on my flickr. more about photography than documenting the boulders, but still gives a good idea.
find them here
noice one craig - be good to see some pictures of what you've been up to?