Another accident at Lyttelton Rock

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sbaclimber
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Not much was reported about the last one (rap accident, a little over 6 months ago), but now another accident has happend.
Unfortunately, the article is less than informative, but the gist of it seems to be a bad cam placement....
http://www.stuff.co.nz/stuff/0,2106,3729866a11,00.html

craigm
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bolted himself into the sheer face with a camming device .....?

I think they mean "bolted" in a loose sense of the word. perhaps "attached" would be a better word....

Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult

sbaclimber
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"craigm" wrote:
bolted himself into the sheer face with a camming device .....?

I think they mean "bolted" in a loose sense of the word. perhaps "attached" would be a better word....


Yeah, some of what was in that article disturbed me enough to write some 'feedback' to Stuff.

cragrat
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Feeding time at the Zoo?

craigm
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who's Tim and why is he at the Zoo? :wink:

Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult

cragrat
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typing wine and dinner don't mix well

JP
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this is my favourite quote:

Quote:
It's common to use bolts on a climb if there are bolts, but just because there are bolts in the region of the climb doesn't mean you can use them

what?

craigm
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it's like bouldering. just cos there's a good hold nearby doesnt necessarily mean you can use it.

Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult

sbaclimber
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"craigm" wrote:
it's like bouldering. just cos there's a good hold nearby doesnt necessarily mean you can use it.

this sums up why not to boulder or sport climb :lol:

Craig
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Not a very informative article.

"craigm" wrote:
it's like bouldering. just cos there's a good hold nearby doesnt necessarily mean you can use it.

Hahahaha. Score:10, Insightful.

JimFix
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All fun aside

'Clemence... fell... 6m, suffering severe head injuries.'

'Iyoda was "very lucky" not to have landed on his head, Ford said. "It's a hard landing and very rocky. He's lucky he wasn't any higher.'

And yet I still see climbers regularly leading on crap rock with no helmet. Darwins theroy of evolution at work (hopeful they haven't breed yet).

"Blake" wrote:
Nettles are aid

cragrat
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This if it is the climb I think it is is not crap rock but it does have a few tricky gear placements ( the useful bit is a 5 hex at the break).

I guess Richard being misquoted again...

sbaclimber
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"cragrat" wrote:
This if it is the climb I think it is is not crap rock but it does have a few tricky gear placements ( the useful bit is a 5 hex at the break).

I guess Richard being misquoted again...


Yes, on all points (I hope for Richard's sake)! I haven't done said climb, but that is probably due more to my wussness and percieved ability to read PH's rock than anything else :roll:

(....I assume I will regret this post in the morning.....)

Having cleaned (all 3 draws!) Bombs Away (scared the s*** out of me, and I was following!) , toproped Getting Rid Of Mister Clean and seen the photo, I am assuming said Mr Iyoda was probably on Scratching Julius. A bold endeavour in the winter, if I do say so myself (the (drunken) wuss is speaking).

PS, I really do hope he is okay. An accident can happen to any of us, and I would hope that if it was me, everyone would be gunning for me to get better and get back on the rock (which I wish Mr. Iyoda as well)!

cragrat
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Scratching Julius was my first thought and you are probably right. I didn't look at the photo too closely. Is the person pointing up looking up Citizen Kane perhaps? which is cetainly a more goey route than S.J.

sbaclimber
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"cragrat" wrote:
Scratching Julius was my first thought and you are probably right. I didn't look at the photo too closely. Is the person pointing up looking up Citizen Kane perhaps? which is cetainly a more goey route than S.J.

Yes, it does look like he is pointing up CK, the cop(?) in the foreground looks like he is below SJ.