Max and Mayan in Europe

The ever-rising temperatures eventually drove Max Farr and I away from St. Leger du Ventoux, where we spent our first six weeks, building up a resistance to French resistance climbing. While at St. Leger we both made quick work of several 8a (29) and 8a+’s (30) (climbing many 2nd shot). Notably, I also managed climbed the newest ‘trade route’, “Collection Automne Hiver” 8b+ (32), which takes a proud line though the massive cave at “La Baline”, a recently developed sector featuring some incredible 40m routes. Thanks to the locals for their recent great bolting efforts!

Our introduction to Ceuse was Berlin Wall as it is one of my favourite sectors, where (thankfully) I managed to tick off a couple old projects quickly. After some mandatory schooling on the typical Ceuse slabs, Max climbed an impressive number of the Berlin classics, including several 7c’s (27) onsight. However, as soon as Max and I moved onto steeper ground we made quick work of the super classic “Carte Blanche” 8a and not so classic but much climbed (once your draws are on) “Soire Froid” 8a+. Both of us climbed it 2nd shot, and while remaining on steep ground, Max made his first 8a flash: “The Borenator”, which also required his new found crimp strength at the crux.

Feeling brave after these sends we dared to take on the hoards of marauding slab climbers to get on the fantastic roof above, “Redote Joli Pepere” 8b (31). After witnessing eight redpoints and an onsight by a Swiss woman, we both went on to send Redote on the same day. Additionally, after an execution style line up of fast 8a and 8a+ ascents (half a dozen, many if not all 2nd shot), I made a five shot, first female ascent of Black Bean 8b+, an extension to the already fantastic “Les Collonettes” 7c+ (28), which takes a beautiful, natural line to the top of the Biography wall (almost 70m).

This trip I have been impressed by the sheer number of great climbers in France, and every year the standard seems to improve. We are currently on a 10 day break to refresh our minds and bodies for the last push before heading to Yosemite Valley. Check out www.mayanclimbs.com for up to date info on my travels. Many thanks.