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Mojozone is back

Mojozone has been resurrected on new software. If you have an account, your old password will not work. You will need to request a new password (just bang in your username or email address, and we'll send you a one-time link; once you get onto the site, choose a new password.).

The migration included 769 accounts, 11 forum categories, 2,243 topics and 18,392 comments, 3,464 private messages, 60 stories and 179 articles. Not everything has made it across - particularly crags and locations. Hopefully we'll get to those at some point.

We have some new features: search for example. There's the potential for lots more cool stuff, and better integration with http://alpineclub.org.nz.

Please let us know if you run into issues, or have questions.

Mayan Smith-Gobat Presentation at The Roxx

Mayan will be giving a talk at The Roxx this Saturday night about life as a full-time climber, and what it's taken to become one of the best sport climbers in New Zealand.

If you're interested in wicked tales of super hard climbing and a selection of stunning photography from around the world, this is an unmissable event.

 

Saturday 27th February

7.30pm

The Roxx Climbing Centre

2009 New Zealand Alpine Journal

The 2009 New Zealand Alpine Journal is for sale this year through the website for $30 ($20 member rate).

For those who missed out, or who'd like to order an extra copy, go here.

We've also uploaded a couple of articles from this years Journal that are available to download to give you a taster of what's inside!

Hot Off The Press - The New Complete Wanaka Rock Climbing Guide

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The Complete Guide to Rock Climbing in Wanaka is printed and available now. 

 

The new compact guide is better than ever with many new and classic photos, updated crag and boulder topos, access maps, improved route descriptions and a very useful route index. With near 700 routes from grade 8 to grade 30+, it might be time to plan your next visit to this all season climbing destination.

 

The latest crag for zimmerframe users — One Tree Crag, Sumner Valley, Christchurch

This crag illustrates the dangers of letting two under-employed local near-pensioners loose with a drill. Until this frenzied burst of choss removal and drilling the only noteworthy route on the crag was Ray's "Out with the Missus" although there were rumours of other developments. The archeological diggings did reveal hints of homo climberus activities but no clay tablets designating the routes were unearthed, so until proved otherwise, this will have to stand as the definitive document. All of the climbs are bolt protected and equipped with double bolt anchors.

Cleddau Valley Cragging guide

Brand new Cleddau Valley Cragging guide is available now for download from the NZAC website.

http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/cleddau-valley-cragging

33 page colour PDF guide that comprehensively covers the 3 major crags in the valley: The Chasm, Babylon and Little Babylon.

CVC guideCVC guide

 

 

Freerider

Having just recovered from a palm sweating gmail chat session with NZ's dynamic climbing duo Max and Mayan (who are in California) we can report the following:

 

They have just completed the route Freerider on El Capitan.

It was hard.

They attempted to climb it all free in a single push and did extremely well, coming close to achieving this goal.

It was really hard.

 

Kiwi mountaineers have gone soft

The New Zealand Alpine Club will this weekend host a debate at their Annual General Meeting to discuss what can be done about the decline in mountaineering activity in NZ.

The debate is open to the public, so come along, it should be an interesting night!

 

There was some good coverage on Morning Report on National Radio this morning. For those that missed it, please follow the link below:

 

http://podcast.radionz.co.nz/mnr/mnr-20091014-0852-Alpine_club_says_Kiwi...

 

BEASTY

Not content to rest on his laurels after his recently reported ascent of Achilles Last Stand (V12), Stu Kurth has kept the dream alive by also repeating Captain Sassy Pants Direct (V11/12) at Flock Hill the other day.

So far this report begs two immediate questions:

1. Will the Beast Kong ever be tamed?

and

2. What is a laurel exactly?

According to answers.com a laurel is:

A Mediterranean evergreen tree (Laurus nobilis) having aromatic, simple leaves and small blackish berries.

67 year old Wellington Rocker ticks the 3 classics

The Central Couloir on Douglas Peak saw an early September ascent by Alex Palman, Bruno Geldermans and Neil Hickman.  With ice conditions being more like frozen snow the tooling was great but the protection offered “gripping” leading with poor protection.  It also meant a long, cold descent on the north side to give the team a full 18 hour day.  This climb gave Neil ascents of the three classics, the Balfour Original Route on Mt Tasman, Heaven’s Door on Mt Hicks and Douglas Peak all in his “retirement” years.  At 67 years he reports there was to be no turning back on Dou

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